Ghosts, Rogues, and Literary Giants: The Human Stories & Legends of London’s Historic Taverns
Beyond their timber frames, leaded glass, and worn stone thresholds, London’s historic public houses are defined by the people who drank, plotted, argued, and bled within them (and thats your tyopicalSaturday night!)
For over four centuries, taverns have served as the unofficial living rooms, courtrooms, and conspiratorial dens of the capital. It's all quite nefarious and we all love dark stories so buckle up for a few of the many pub stories.
My watercolour survey documents 50 historic London pubs and taverns some because of their archiceture, some theit history and some because they do a great pint. While the architectural linework records their physical evolution—from medieval timber frames to High-Victorian gin palaces—it is the human stories, that make these the living rooms of the city.
Part 1: Literary Giants, Highwaymen & Eccentric Regulars
London’s pubs have always been magnetic hubs for writers, rebels, and eccentric characters.
1. The Swearing Parrot & Literary Titans at Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese (Fleet Street)
The Famous Patrons: Rebuilt immediately after the Great Fire of London in 1667, this labyrinthine Fleet Street tavern welcomed Charles Dickens, Dr. Samuel Johnson, Mark Twain, and G.K. Chesterton. Dr. Johnson’s personal armchair remains preserved in the dining room.
The Legend of Polly: For over 30 years (circa 1895–1926), the pub’s most famous resident was Polly, an African Grey Parrot renowned for hurling obscenities at politicians and patrons. Upon her death in 1926, international newspapers carried her obituary, and she was taxidermied in a glass case behind the bar, where she still watches over drinkers today.
The Guardian of the Bar: A 1829 portrait of waiter William Simpson hangs in the wood-panelled bar—traditionally handed down to every new landlord to symbolically oversee service.
Explore the Painting: My painting of Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, Fleet Street.
2. Highwaymen & Romantic Poets at The Spaniards Inn (Hampstead)
The Highwayman’s Den: Built in 1585 on the edge of Hampstead Heath, this timber-framed inn was a notorious haunt for the highwayman Dick Turpin, whose father was reportedly the landlord. Turpin used the upper windows to spot wealthy travellers departing London before ambushing them on the heath.
The Gordon Riots Trick: During the anti-Catholic Gordon Riots of 1780, an angry mob marched to burn down nearby Kenwood House. The clever landlord of The Spaniards offered the rioters free ale; by the time the King's troops arrived, the mob was too drunk to fight, saving Kenwood House from destruction.
Poetic Inspiration: John Keats wrote Ode to a Nightingale in the pub’s garden, while Lord Byron, Percy Bysshe Shelley, Bram Stoker, and Charles Dickens were all frequent patrons.
Explore the Painting: The beautiful The Spaniards Inn, Hampstead.
3. The Great Train Robbers & Hollywood Stars at The Star Tavern (Belgravia)
The Underworld Office: Tucked down a quiet Belgravia mews, this quiet 19th-century pub became the secret headquarters for London’s 'gentlemen robbers' in the 1950s and 60s. Masterminds Bruce Reynolds and Buster Edwards sat in the back room planning the details of the infamous 1963 Great Train Robbery.
The Celebrity Regulars: The pub simultaneously served as a glamorous haunt for film stars including Diana Dors, Peter O'Toole, and Albert Finney.
Explore the Painting: View my study of The Star Tavern, Belgravia.
4. Ruffed Cats & Shakespearean Lore at The Seven Stars (Holborn)
Surviving 1602: Standing directly behind the Royal Courts of Justice, this narrow timber tavern survived the Great Fire of 1666. William Shakespeare performed at nearby Middle Temple and according to legal tradition drank here, while Charles Dickens modeled the Magpie & Stump pub in The Pickwick Papers after its low-ceilinged bar.
The Ruffed Feline Stars: The pub is famous for its resident cats (such as 'General' and 'Clement Attlee') who roam the bar wearing custom Elizabethan lace ruffs, attracting visitors from around the world.
Explore the Painting: View my study of The Seven Stars, Holborn.
Part 2: Spectral Officers, Unsolved Murders & Hauntings
Where centuries of beer, betrayal, and violence collide, ghost stories inevitably take root (that's pubs and not Croydon)
1. Cedric the Card-Cheating Officer at The Grenadier (Belgravia)
The Legend: Tucked down Wilton Row, this secluded pub originally served as the officers’ mess for the 1st Regiment of Foot Guards. The story goes that a young subaltern officer named Cedric was caught cheating at a high-stakes game of cards in the cellar and beaten to death by his enraged comrades.
The Haunting: Visitors and staff report sudden icy cold spots, footsteps in empty rooms, distant moans, and even an invisible cigarette that burned a patron's hand at the bar (i am guessing he was a bit drunk). Apparitions are said to peak every September—the anniversary of Cedric's death. To appease his spirit, visitors pin banknotes to the ceiling to pay off his fatal gambling debt. A ghost story which pays!
Famous Regulars: Frequented in history by the Duke of Wellingtonand King George IV, and in recent years by Prince William and Madonna.
Explore the Painting: Street view of The Grenadier, Belgravia.
2. The Murdered Prostitute & The Unrevoked License at The Silver Cross (Whitehall)
The Brothel License: Operating on Whitehall since 1674, this building originally belonged to a 13th-century hermitage before receiving a royal brothel license from King Charles II. Because the royal brothel license was never formally revoked by Parliament, it holds the bizarre distinction of being Britain's only technically legal (though non-operating) brothel.
The Spectre: Staff and landladies over generations have reported encountering the sad apparition of a young woman murdered during the building's 17th-century brothel days, accompanied by unseen footsteps pacing the upper hallway.
Explore the Painting: View my watercolour of The Silver Cross, Whitehall.
3. The Umbrella Murder & After-Hours Drinkers at The Market Porter (Borough Market)
Victorian Tragedy: Standing beside Borough Market, this Victorian pub was the site of a bizarre Victorian crime. In a heated argument between drinking companions, a market porter named Alfred Howe was killed when an umbrella was driven through his eye (nice!).
Spectral Regulars: Passers-by looking through the windows late at night report seeing shadowy, spectral figures leaning against the bar counter drinking long after closing time. Although that is problaby what the landlord tells police officers
Explore the Painting: View my study of The Market Porter, Borough Market.
4. Grave Robbers & Secret Autopsies at The Flask (Highgate)
Anatomical Secrets: In the 18th century, grave robbers ('resurrection men') harvested fresh corpses from Highgate Cemetery. Local tradition holds that one of London's earliest clandestine autopsies was performed inside the pub's upstairs Committee Room using a stolen body. A great tale to tell while sat upstairs eating a sunday roast.
Highwayman Hideout: The pub's 1663 stables were another hideout for Dick Turpin while evading the Bow Street Runners.
Explore the Painting: View my study of The Flask, Highgate.
5. The Dental Patient Ghost at La Crêperie & King William IV (Hampstead)
The Mournful Child: Sharing a pavement site on Hampstead High Street, folklore tells of the ghost of an 18th-century little girl who died following a traumatic visit to a dentist across the road. She is reportedly seen peering mournfully through the pub windows toward the crêpe stall outside. Why she is in the pub i am not sure?
Explore the Painting: My painting of La Crêperie & King William IV, Hampstead.
Part 3: The Current 50-Pub Architectural Survey
Below is the complete indexed list of 50 historic London pubs and taverns in the Freehandlines architectural watercolour collection, organized across central London's historic villages and quarters. It is forever growing so check back for more.
Historic Fleet Street, City & Docklands
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese (Fleet Street) — Rebuilt 1667; home to Dr. Johnson, Dickens & Polly the swearing parrot.
The Mayflower (Rotherhithe) — 1620 mooring site of the Pilgrim ship; signs Mayflower descendants' book.
The George Inn (Southwark) — London's last surviving galleried coaching inn; frequented by Dickens.
Trafalgar Tavern (Greenwich) — 1837 Regency riverside landmark famous for Cabinet Whitebait dinners.
The Gun (Docklands) — 18th-century riverside pub where Lord Nelson secretly met Lady Emma Hamilton.
East India Arms (Fenchurch Street) — Built 1829 beside the British East India Company headquarters.
The Seven Stars (Holborn) — Built 1602 behind Royal Courts of Justice; famous ruffed resident cats.
Old Bank of England (Fleet Street) — Built 1886; gold bullion vaults linked to Sweeney Todd pie shop lore.
Market Porter (Borough Market) — Victorian Borough Market pub; site of umbrella murder and nocturnal apparitions.
The Greenwich Pensioner (Poplar) — 1827 East End pub surviving WWII Blitz bombing.
Hampstead, Highgate & North London Villages
The Spaniards Inn (Hampstead Heath) — Built 1585; Dick Turpin highwayman hideout & Keats' garden.
The Holly Bush (Hampstead) — Picturesque Georgian village tavern on Holly Walk.
The Flask (Highgate) — 1663 coaching inn; grave robber autopsies & Dick Turpin cellar hideout.
The Flask (Hampstead) — 18th-century mineral water spring tavern near Hampstead Heath.
Jack Straw's Castle (Hampstead) — High-point Heath tavern linked to the 1381 Peasants' Revolt.
The Wells Tavern (Hampstead) — Historic Well Walk pub dating from Hampstead's 18th-century spa era.
King William IV & La Crêperie (Hampstead) — High Street pub famous for pavement crêpe stall & little girl ghost.
The Signal Pub (Forest Hill) — 1881 Victorian station pub built beside the lost Croydon Canal bank.
Mayfair, Belgravia & St James's
The Grenadier (Belgravia) — 1720 officers' mess; haunted by card-cheating Cedric.
The Star Tavern (Belgravia) — 1963 Great Train Robbery planning den & film star haunt.
The Audley Public House (Mayfair) — 1888 Victorian gin palace; visited by Michelle Obama.
The Punch Bowl (Mayfair) — 300-year-old Georgian pub and former 19th-century court.
The Thomas Cubitt (Belgravia) — Flagship pub named after master builder Thomas Cubitt.
The Silver Cross (Whitehall) — 1674 tavern with unrevoked 17th-century royal brothel license.
The Horse & Groom (Belgravia) — 1852 mews pub frequented by The Beatles and Brian Epstein.
Shepherd Tavern / Chesterfield Arms (Mayfair) — 1737 Shepherd Market pub; WWII RAF Fighter Command haunt.
The Only Running Footman (Mayfair) — 1749 pub named after footmen who ran before carriages clearing traffic.
The Duke of Wellington (Marylebone) — 1812 pub on Crawford Street displaying Wellington's 1825 cheque.
The Duke of Kendal (Connaught Village) — Connaught Village pub with west-facing sunset window.
The Alfred Tennyson (Belgravia) — Motcomb Street pub named after the Poet Laureate.
Soho, Covent Garden & West End
The French House (Dean Street, Soho) — De Gaulle's WWII speech den & half-pints only rule.
The Punch & Judy (Covent Garden) — 1787 terrace pub built overlooking the 1662 puppet show site.
The Three Greyhounds (Soho) — Historic Greek Street pub in the heart of Soho.
The Fitzroy Tavern (Fitzrovia) — Legendary 1930s bohemian meeting place for George Orwell & Dylan Thomas.
The Jon Snow Pub (Soho) — Wardour Street media pub named after the broadcaster.
L'Escargot (Greek Street, Soho) — 1741 townhouse restaurant & former basement snail farm.
Quo Vadis (Dean Street, Soho) — Historic restaurant/club; former home of Karl Marx.
Rules Restaurant (Covent Garden) — Founded 1798; London's oldest restaurant frequented by Dickens.
The Cock & Bottle (Notting Hill) — 1851 Victorian pub with ornate gravity-feed spirit taps.
The Dove (Hammersmith) — Thames pub where Rule, Britannia! was written; smallest bar room.
Chelsea, West London & Regional Inclusions
Chelsea Green / Wild Tavern (Chelsea) — Built on the lost 18th-century Chelsea Common cricket ground.
The Drayton Court Hotel (Ealing) — 1894 hotel where Ho Chi Minh worked in the kitchens in 1914.
The Ivy Chelsea Garden / Six Bells (Chelsea) — 1722 Six Bells pub site preserving six original bells.
Asylum Chapel (Peckham) — 1826 sanctuary for retired pub landlords damaged in the Blitz.
The Mitre (Hampton Court) — Built 1665 by Charles II as overflow rooms for palace guests.
The Old Ship (Richmond) — 18th-century carriage inn with nautical telegraph banister.
The Crooked House (Windsor) — 1592 green oak house with secret tunnel to Windsor Castle.
King's Head Inn (Bledington, Cotswolds) — 17th-century honey-stone Cotswold village pub.
Eagle and Child (Oxford) — Historic 1650 pub where Tolkien & C.S. Lewis formed the Inklings.
Fraunces Tavern (New York) — 1762 tavern where Washington bade farewell & Samuel Fraunces spied.
Frequently Asked Questions.
Q: Which London pub is considered the most haunted?
A: The Grenadier in Belgravia is widely regarded as London's most haunted pub. Legend holds that a young officer named Cedric was beaten to death in the cellar after cheating at cards. Visitors report cold spots, moans, and an invisible cigarette burning at the bar.
Q: Where can I buy architectural watercolour prints of London pubs?
A: Original watercolour studies and museum-grade Giclée prints of over 50 historic London pubs are available at Freehandlines, hand-painted by chartered architect Christian Coop, MSAI.
Q: Can I commission a custom watercolour painting of my local pub?
A: Yes please. Custom house, pub, and venue portraits can be commissioned directly by visiting the Freehandlines Contact Page or reading our step-by-step Commissioning Guide.
About the Artist Christian Coop, MSAI, is an architect and artist documenting the UK’s built heritage through one of the largest contemporary collections of architectural watercolours. With 30 years of experience an architect and a Design Director at leading global firms, his work has been featured by CNN, the BBC, and the RIBA Journal. He is currently an Associate Partner and Design Director at HTA.
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