Exploring Hampstead: A Journey Through History and Architecture
- Mar 29, 2025
- 3 min read
Updated: Jun 6
As we make a left turn, we begin to climb upwards towards salvation, passing excess and criminality along the way.
The Logs: A True Architectural Oddity
The Logs is the first peculiarity along the route. It is a remarkable crash of architecture and sculpture. Often described as the "chocolate Gateau" of housing, it has everything and then a bit more! Architectural historian Nikolaus Pevsner referred to The Logs as a "formidable atrocity." This eccentric Gothic pile certainly makes a bold statement with its multi-colored arches, turrets, and intricate carvings.
It's perhaps fitting that it was once home to Boy George, the iconic New Romantic singer of the 1980s. The archway showcases the architectural richness of the building, including two lions resting on the roof. Kids enjoy pointing out the cat chasing mice along the entrance.
The Hampstead Lock-Up: A Glimpse Into Local History
Nestled away from the bustling High Street, the Hampstead Lock-Up is a fascinating piece of local history. Built in 1730, this small, unassuming door in a wall served as a temporary holding cell for local offenders. It offers a glimpse into a bygone era of law enforcement before the establishment of modern police. The building behind it, Cannon Hall, used to be the former magistrates' hall. Offenders would be taken from the lock-up and tried here. Today, the lock-up is actually a five-bedroom home!
Along Cannon Lane, you can find bollards that, upon closer inspection, turn out to be cannons. These cannons are buried with their noses pointed upwards, and a cannonball is welded into the barrel to prevent water from entering. They are remnants from one of the previous owners of Cannon Hall, Sir James Cosmo Melvill (1792–1861). Melvill bought Cannon Hall around 1838, the year he became chief secretary of the East India Company. With access to many disused cannons, he creatively incorporated them into his new house. Transporting them to Hampstead must have been quite a chore!
The Hall and the area became well-known for the cannons, a unique aspect that still persists today. This house was also home to Gerald du Maurier, an actor and brother of Sylvia Llewelyn Davies, the mother of five boys who inspired Peter Pan.
Christ's Church: A Spiritual Landmark
Just across the road from Cannon Hall lies Christ's Church—a Church of England establishment founded in 1850. It is the largest church in Hampstead, noted for having one of the tallest spires in London. Built on high ground, it offers amazing views of the Heath. The spire is so prominent that Thames River pilots use it for navigation along the river.
This church has a strong connection to the Heath. On Ascension Day, the parish priest leads local children in a walk around the Heath. This scenic event marks the boundaries of the parish.
As you walk further up the hill, take a moment to look up. Above the Catto Gallery, you will notice an old French watchmaker's sign. Though a relatively recent addition, it serves as a reminder of the influence of French watchmakers, particularly Huguenot immigrants from France.
The French Influence: St. Dorothy’s Church
The French influence continues as one crosses Heath Street, leading to one of London's most unusual churches. This small church can easily be overlooked, yet it presents an impressive façade amid a typical row of terraced houses. Established after the English Reformation in the sixteenth century, it initially served mainly a French congregation.
St. Dorothy's convent supports the church and served as a home for General Charles de Gaulle during the Second World War. Its historical significance adds yet another layer to the rich tapestry of Hampstead's cultural heritage.
In conclusion, Hampstead is a treasure trove of history and architecture. Each sight tells a story, from The Logs to the Hampstead Lock-Up and Christ's Church. If you find yourself in this enchanting neighborhood, do explore its unique landmarks and appreciate the narratives woven into its landscape.
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